All About Rye

rye grain growing in a field, courtesy Image Catalog

We’re now in the third decade of a ryesurgence! Here’s what’s going on with rye around the world.

When my career in the beverage industry began in the early 2000s, I was primarily a single malt Scotch drinker, but it was rye whiskey, not bourbon (yet), that sparked my interest in American whiskeys. It turns out I wasn’t alone. By 2007, when I was the Assistant Spirits Buyer at Astor Wine & Spirits in New York City, rye’s hipness was such that we couldn’t keep the stuff, any of the stuff, on the shelves for more than a day or two. 

In 2020 it’s hard to imagine a time when there wasn’t enough rye to go around. Rye whiskey of all shapes, sizes, colors, and provenance are elbowing each other for shelf space these days, and the category continues to evolve. 

The rise and fall and rise again of American rye

Prior to Prohibition, rye grew out of 18th and 19th century farming communities, and was a whiskey mainstay in the U.S. and Canada, but following the Great Depression and World War II, it took quite some time to make hearts notice its absence and grow fond of it again in the states. By the second half of the 20th century, some distilleries were still producing a limited number of cases for the precious few who still seemed to want them, but the majority of rye whiskey in America was Canadian. By the 1970s, Americans mostly stuck to clear spirits anyway. 

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, a category that was once a tough sell was suddenly a coveted commodity thanks to the popularity of internet/social media whiskey and cocktail culture—most classic whiskey cocktails call for rye as the whiskey base—and it seemed everyone wanted to be like the cocktail and whiskey-swilling characters in the TV series Mad Men. 

Big American whiskey brands like Rittenhouse, Old Overholt, Jim Beam were caught off guard as they saw their stocks depleting without enough filled barrels aging in the warehouses to catch up to demand. The craft whiskey movement was still in its fairly early stages with maybe a handful of young, small production ryes in the marketplace and even those were selling out faster than they could make them.

As the craft spirit movement boomed by around 2009, rye went from being the exotic to the expected member of a brand portfolio. It turns out rye can be more... forgiving... than other styles of whiskey. Depending on a distiller’s talent and expertise for producing and blending, rye could be released at a younger age than bourbon or single malt, or possibly aged in smaller barrels or briefly given a nap in ex-wine barrels, and be not only passable, but pretty good. Unaged rye (PSA: please don’t call it “moonshine” if it’s legal) was even trendy for a while. 

If barrel experimentation wasn’t the strategy, it turns out there were plenty of contract distillers (most notably MGP in Indiana, or Schenley in Canada) which had well matured stock in barrels for sale, and new brands entered what had essentially become a North American independent bottling industry, though no one was calling it that when it came to rye or bourbon, and some chose not to disclose they were doing it, or if they were, preferred to stay vague about the details. Sure, it was your great-grandpa’s recipe. So he lived in Indiana for a bit there, did he, and where did that proofing water come from again?

But the really cool products that emerged from this era and continue to be enjoyed today encompass better brand transparency practices, and an appreciation for rye—not just as a finished whiskey, but for the grain, the water source, and the role of local climate conditions. 

Boulevardier made with Basil Hayden’s Rye, photo by Amanda Schuster

Spice and everything nice 

Unlike bourbon—which is predominantly corn-based with varying percentages of other grains like barley, wheat, and/or rye—rye whiskey doesn’t have to incorporate other grains in its mashbill. As the thirst for rye grew out of the early 2000s, high rye at 80% or more, or even 100% rye, was a trending style because of its perceived sharp, spicy properties. 

That high spice style is similar to what used to be known as Pennsylvania style rye (a.k.a. Monongahela rye, named after the local river). Out of an early 2000s demand for classic PA brand Old Overholt, craft brands like Wigle and Dad’s Hat wisely recognized their potential for success in the cocktail scene. 

 “I like [this style] for cocktails because it is unrepentantly what it is,” says Connecticut bartender-at-large Geoffrey Smith, who says other styles like bourbon can be more “meek” in cocktails. “It’s the lead singer and everyone else in the band better recognize that.” 

Whiskey ambassador Daniella Solano says, “Personally, I believe every Manhattan should be made with rye.”

Devin Kidner, who runs science-based mixology education program Hollow Leg in Chicago, IL says this style of rye is perfect for when “extra punch is needed... when you want the extra burn of rye to warm you through and through.” 

Spirits entrepreneur David Schmier says he founded Redemption Rye, one of the first popular independently bottled brands, in the early 2000s after bartender and author Gaz Regan introduced him to rye Manhattans (Regan passed in late 2019). “That spiciness did the trick.” The brand became so successful (it recently won Double Gold in the 2020 NY International Spirits Competition), that he was able to sell it a few years ago to Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Schmier is now an independent bottler of other whiskeys, including the Senator rye.

Matte Klette, the company’s Trade Advocacy Manager, is also a whiskey educator. When asked about what varieties of rye are used in American whiskey, he explains that if a distillery is not using home grown rye, the majority of American rye whiskey, including Redemption, is actually made from Bavarian grain, which is sturdier, less prone to fungal infection and has that now-familiar brighter, spicier flavor (in comparison, he says Northern American rye tends to taste earthier). 

But terroir is only part of the story. “The fun thing about rye grain is that it’s not necessarily the grain in itself that is spicy,” he explains. “Yes, you get different notes from different rye regions—but the key to releasing those spice notes in distillation is the yeast. If your yeast isn’t POF+—phenolic off flavor positive—as opposed to POF-, you’re not going to see those traditional spice notes. Rye grain has ferulic acid in the cells, when distilling you need an enzyme contained within POF+ yeast to convert that ferulic acid into guaiacol/eugenol. Those naturally occurring compounds are where we are getting our smoky, clove, and other spice notes.” He mentions that most  American yeast used in whiskey making is POF+.

Redemption isn’t the only brand from the early craft days that’s evolved and thrived under corporate partnership, and even MGP now produces its own rye under the label Rossville Union. By 2020, Old Overholt, which has existed since 1810, decided to, well, overhaul, with new packaging (the old man is back to his originally grumpy self) and its entry-level rye has jumped from 80 to 86 proof (winning Gold in the 2020 NYISC) to join a now permanent bottled-in-bond expression, both non chill-filtered. 

courtesy Sagamore Spirit

But not all rye is spicy, and that’s OK 

On the flip side is Maryland style rye—full-bodied, but with less spice and more herbal and green tea-like notes. Brian Treacy, President of Sagamore Spirit, whose ryes have won several top medals in the NY International Spirits Competition over the years, says there were once 40 rye distilleries in the state of Maryland prior to Prohibition. Fans of Maryland-style rye preferred the softer, slightly sweeter quality, attributed to the mix of corn and malted barley in the mash bill, and the use of local limestone water to bring it down to proof. “At the start of WWII, almost every distillery converted to ethanol to support the war effort,” says Treacy. “But in the past decade, dozens of craft startups [such as Baltimore Spirits] are picking up the state’s [rye] distilling mantle.”

NY bartender Paula Lukas favors this style of rye for cocktails like the Old Pal, with dry vermouth and Campari. She says, “A good quality rye adds depth to a cocktail, with a savory component that allows me to get really creative, and the possibilities are endless.”

courtesy Alex Clark

The rise of the Empire

Some of the most successful rye producers in the new millennium operated out of New York State. But what was New York rye, exactly? Spicy like a Pennsylvania? Mellow like a Maryland? Something had to be said for the distilleries that were going out of their way to interpret the rye arts, and exclusively use grains grown in the Empire State, such as Hudson Valley’s Hillrock Estate. In 2015, a group of producers—including Tuthilltown Spirits (Hudson Rye), Van Brunt Stillhouse, Coppersea Distilling, NY York Distilling Co. (Ragtime Rye), Kings County Distillery, Black Button Distilling—actualized the designation Empire Rye. Much as categories like bonded-in-bond were developed as a proof of quality, Empire Rye must be produced according to certain regulations, including that it must be made with 75% of grains grown in the state and made at a single NY distillery (it can be Blended Empire Rye if more than one exclusively Empire Rye is in the blend), among other standards. 

Alex Clark, who founded Brooklyn’s Fort Hamilton Rye (named for the Brooklyn Revolutionary era Army base) remarks, “When I started bartending with Sasha Petraske [the pioneering bartender who founded Milk & Honey, among other renown bars, and sadly passed in 2015] there were two options, Rittenhouse, Overholt and if you were really lucky, some Rittenhouse bonded, and/or original PA brands that got bought and reformulated in KY [Michter’s].” Like many others, he says he found it odd that there wasn’t something known officially as “Northeastern Rye.” For Fort Hamilton, he went for something more earth and umami-forward, rather than concentrating on just the spice, using barley as the only other grain in the mashbill. 

Stoll & Wolfe

A mash of styles

Stoll & Wolfe is a modern brand produced in Lancaster County, PA, founded by former Michter’s distiller (back when it was still known as Pennsylvania whiskey)—the late Dick Stoll—and entrepreneur Erik Wolfe. Unlike most PA rye, theirs is decidedly fruit forward, with an almost bourbon-like leatheriness. “The Pennsylvania Rye we produce is the same mash bill and recipe Dick Stoll learned from his mentor Charlie Beam ,” says Wolfe. “It's unique to Eastern Pennsylvania due to the inclusion of corn. Lancaster County is the most productive non-irrigated farmland in the US. A large portion of that is corn. Our mash bill reflects that with 30% local corn. Dick believed the sweetness of the corn provided a nice counterpoint to the rye and made the spice notes of the whiskey more pronounced on the tongue.” 

Taste a rye whiskey from cooler climate and/or higher altitude distilleries from Minnesota’s (Far North’s Roknar Rye), from Utah (Porter’s Small Batch or the ones bottled by High West, like Rendezvous), or Colorado (such as Laws), and there is something uniquely different—more dark chocolate, sweet herbs (thyme, oregano) and dried fruit notes—than other styles of American rye. “In the aging process, the frequent barometric pressure changes we see due to Denver's geographic location at the base of the Rocky Mountains results in greater interaction with the wood as the spirit cycles in/out of the barrel staves,” explains Al Laws, Founder and President, Laws Whiskey House (Colorado Rye Distillery of the Year, 2020 NYISC). “Changes in temperature in our high mountain desert also impact the pressure in the barrel—i.e. hotter temperatures increase pressure—and also facilitate spirit movement in/out of the wood in a similar way.” He says it really puts the 53 gallon oak barrels to work. “We liken the interaction of the spirit and the barrel to that of a beating heart.” 

Perhaps Michigan might be the next state to declare a regional style, considering the work of Eastern Kille Distillery (its Straight Rye won Double Gold, 2020 NYISC) and Mammoth Distilling, though Grand Traverse is doing its own thing with its Islay (peated) rye. Virginia’s Catoctin Creek even has its own Rye Society. For a Pacific Northwest comparison, try Rogue Spirits Oregon Rye Malt or Ransom Rye, Barley Wheat whiskey. Texas rye? Give Balcones a try. The drier climate of California makes for an even more chocolatey and butter-scotchy (yet still spicy) rye in the likes of Frey Ranch Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye or Sonoma Distilling Co (both Straight and Cherrywood). . 

Rye in bourbon country

Rittenhouse Bonded-in-Bond (Double Gold, 2020 NYISC) is a PA rye that’s gone to KY thanks to Heaven Hill. It was one of those ryes that for a time were un-findable because it became such a bartender’s darling for cocktail recipes, as Clark mentions above. By the early 2000s, KY distillers boarded the rye train, but instead of trying to compete with the success of craft rye, started releasing higher end expressions intended for neat sipping as one would a fine bourbon. These include Wild Turkey’s Rare Breed, Jim Beam’s Knob Creek Single Barrel Select series and its Basil Hayden’s 10 Year, Buffalo Trace’s annual Antique Collection rye whiskeys like Thomas H. Handy, Michter’s 10 Year and most recently, its US*1 Toasted Barrel Finish Rye. Recent years also saw the first permanent rye fixtures from Heaven Hill’s Elijah Craig series and Woodford Reserve.

Rye is also the star of newer KY brands on the scene like Rabbit Hole, Pinhook (an independent bottler with annual batches, including the excellent new 2020 Rye’d On), New Riff, and Kentucky Peerless. 

Sometimes rye isn’t finished until it’s well, finished

Back in 2011, Angel’s Envy made a splash with its Rum Finish Rye—which spends an additional 18 months in Caribbean rum casks. The late Master Distiller Lincoln Henderson’s choice seemed like an odd one at the time, but it continues to be a favorite among aficionados. However, imitation can be the highest form of flattery, enter 2020’s Templeton Rye Caribbean Cask. 

For the first Milam & Greene rye from Texas, Master Blender Heather Greene finished the maturation in Port casks, giving it a slightly baked (in a good way) texture. Then there’s the controversial Basil Hayden’s Dark Rye, which is actually blended with a bit of Port. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea (although people who love it, really, really love it), but it does lend itself well to certain cocktails. Jesse Hubbard, owner of Saint Russell Productions says he favors it in fall cocktails as a compliment to warm, spicy flavor profiles. 

Incidentally, for another distinctly autumnal, soothing drop, there’s Sagamore Spirit Calvados Finish rye. Or if you’re really into iced tea, maybe FEW’s Immortal tea-proofed rye is your bag. 

Canadian rye

Canada’s modern craft whiskey movement, rose up around the same time as its counterparts south of the border, though Americans were understandably a bit distracted with their own whiskey as it was happening. Along with rye grain-based Canadian whiskiesfrom Crown Royal (known for its Crown Harvest Rye) and Canadian Club (100% Rye) , Alberta Premium (which also supplies much of the rye to popular brand Whistle Pig) and Lot 40 are some of the breakout Canadian rye stars of the past couple of decades.

I checked in with Davin de Kergommeaux, Canadian whisky expert and author of Canadian Whisky: the New Portable Expert, to see if he’s tried some of the newer whiskies on the scene.

“Still Waters Distillery in Toronto was Ontario’s first microdistillery and began making single malt whisky.” He says a batch of 100% rye they did as a test was so popular in Canada that it now makes up about half of their production. “Still Water’s rye, released on the Stalk & Barrel label sings with lemon curd notes like you might expect from European ryes, along with cereal notes and fruitiness but without the massive vanillas of traditional American-style rye.” He says he’s also a fan of Dillon’s Distillery Rye and North 7 Distillery in Ottawa.

He goes on to say, “Many of the small new distilleries across Canada are experimenting with rye but it is a bit early to pass judgement.  I have high hopes for Last Straw in Toronto, and Goodridge & Williams in Vancouver. “

Arbikie Master Distiller Kirsty Black, courtesy Arbikie

World Rye

North America has had a rye industry for centuries, but the grain is not unique to that continent. Though barley has traditionally been the dominant grain in Australian and European whiskeys, a new breed of distillers are releasing rye styles. In Australia, brands such as Belgrove and The Gospel have garnered many accolades for their rye. Finland’s Kyro distillery showcases rye in several releases, including a Malt Rye. Stork Club is the first distillery in Germany to produce rye, and the first release from the revived Kilbeggan distillery in Ireland was a limited edition Small Batch Rye (note: please make more of that!).

In Scotland, Arbikie distillery in the Highlands has produced the first Scottish rye. “Growing rye requires long periods of dry weather, which can be challenging,” remarks Arbikie founder David Stirling. “However our farm team has done an excellent job nurturing the carefully selected varieties by our Master Distiller Kirsty Black. As a plant scientist and distiller, she has brought the farming and distilling worlds together… Our Highland Rye whisky certainly embodies everything our family has been doing since we started farming 400 years ago.” Though they are pricey bottles here in the states, upwards of $300 a pop, the 3 and 4-Yr old ryes—which incorporate smaller percentages of wheat and barley in the mashbill, and are matured in a combination of American oak and ex-Armagnac barrels—do indeed go down a treat. I tasted them at the height of summer, and kept thinking about autumn candy apples as I sipped. 

The future of rye

Rye is finding new fans around the world, and continues to excite the mixology community, who are no doubt looking forward to a time they can discuss the category’s complexities over an actual bar.

“The new generation of bartender is embracing the versatility of rye,” says Connecticut cocktail and spirits consultant Anthony DeSerio. He notes that while rye is excellent in classic cocktails, the variety of its flavor profiles particularly lend themselves to the trend of using fresh, local ingredients. We can all look forward to tasting what rye, all the rye, can do in the years to come.