It's Still Picnic and BBQ Season! Here Are Wines for Everything You Stuff In a Bun

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Food you eat with no knife or fork = an extra hand for a stemless wine tumbler.

Handhelds are summertime saviors. Any meal that comes with its own edible serving vessel is a win-win, plus dinner-in-a-roll is just plain fun. Especially with Labor Day coming up this weekend, grill, broil or roast your favorite, top it as you like and tuck into your portable, edible vessel while enjoying one of these wines.

Burger

A grilled beef patty is like a blank canvas of sorts. Sure it tastes great on its own or finished simply with cheese and ketchup, but you might prefer it topped with any combination of lettuce tomato, onion, sautéed mushrooms, sliced avocado, and jalapeño peppers and/or slathered with chipotle mayo, aioli or tangy homemade steak sauce. No matter your penchant, a few styles will always work. “Next to a medium-rare burger you don’t want anything too rich,” says Doreen Winkler, natural wine sommelier and founder of home wine club Orange Glou. She prefers a dark rosé that veers toward red wine territory. “It can stand up to the beef and toppings without overpowering them.” Bob Smith, certified sommelier at Montage Palmetto Bluff in Bluffton, South Carolina, opens Beaujolais from Chiroubles alongside a burger, a region he believes has the best terroir for gamay in the world. “You can even serve this slightly chilled for a hot summer backyard grill party,” he recommends.

• Weingut Schmitt Rosé 2018 ($20), a darkly-hued biodynamic wine from Germany’s Weinhessen region that’s a funky field blend of merlot, pinot noir, blauer portugieser and dornfelder.

• Damien Coquelet Chiroubles Beaujolais 2017 ($24): “Beautiful elegance and finesse, full of aromas of violets and bing cherries with soft malleable tannins on the palate,” Smith says.

• Theotoky Rosé 2018 ($10), an organic and biodynamic syrah-based Greek offering that’s fresh, fleshy and weighty. This wine won a Bronze Medal at the 2020 Berlin International Wine Competition. 

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Pork BBQ Sandwich

All BBQ is not created equally, as evidenced by this guide for pairing wines for regional styles. But for argument’s sake let’s assume the sauce you are using is of the tangy sweet variety. Winkler turns to a light-bodied orange wine to bring some balance. “Its acidity cuts through the fat of the pork to brighten the dish and cleanse the palate,” she says. “The texture is juicy and isn’t overwhelmed by the BBQ’s sweetness.” If the sauce happens to be more on the tart side (like Eastern North Carolina, which is a mixture of vinegar and cayenne), don’t be afraid to serve a well-chilled sweeter wine like muscat canelli. And Smith likes Méthode Classique bubbly from South Africa. “It is a super refreshing backyard crusher, at a great price,” he says. “Sparkling wines’ brightness cuts through unctuous foods like pork and burgers.”

• Domaine Glivanos Paleokerisio 2018 ($15 for 500mL) is a refreshing “semi-sparkling” orange wine from Greece made with both white (the grape Debina) and red (Vlahiko) grapes that drinks a bit like a fizzy sherry.

• Cameron Hughes Lot 648 Lake County Muscat Canelli ($12), with an aromatic nose of orange blossom, honey, cantaloupe and mandarin orange and stone fruits and citrus on the palate.

• Graham Beck Brut Rosé ($18), which “completely over delivers for its high ‘teens price point for a Méthode Classique sparkler, bursting with fresh strawberry and raspberry flavors, and finishing with crisp clean acidity,” says Smith.

Bratwurst

While your first inclination might be to pop open a cold beer for these German sausages that are a little bit spicy and a little bit fatty, wine can be equally fine. Riffing on the “if it grows together it goes together” mentality, you might want to try a German trollinger. Other slightly-chilled, medium-tannin reds will also hold their own next to the sausages without being too heavy. Nicolas Seillan, winemaker for Château Lassègue in Saint-Émilion and his wife Christina pop one of theirs in the fridge for twenty minutes before serving. “We drink our reds all summer long with dinner, on the patio or grilling out,” explains Christina.  “A slight chill... accentuates the freshness of the flavors and makes it even more enjoyable on warm days.” 

• Andi Knauss La Boutanche Trollinger 2018 ($25/1l), a natural wine with notes of violets and raspberries, very dry, crisp and definitely chillable.

• Les Cadrans de Lassègue 2016 ($30), with black cherry, cranberry, spice and violet on the nose, a rich and round palate and fresh acidity on the finish.

• Viña Pomal Crianza 2017 ($16); This Rioja is highly aromatic, with hints of black fruits, licorice and roasted coffee, and is supple, balanced, and fresh with soft tannins and perfect with a slight chill.

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Lobster Roll / Crab Cake

Succulent shellfish meat on a buttery bun: lobster rolls and crab cake sandwiches are two of those quintessentially perfect casual meals. For either, the juicy acidity of a lighter-style French or Spanish rosé is a foil for the richness of the seafood, while the touch of herbaceousness matches the flecks of tarragon or Old Bay seasoning mixed in. “The fresh, fruit flavors [of Languedoc rosé] work well with cuisine that’s just as light, like shellfish, anchovies, olives and tomatoes,” says Vanessa de Ballard, sommelier, wine educator and global prestige accounts director for Gérard Bertrand. “Rosé goes hand in hand with the Mediterranean diet, so think seafood and tapas.”

• Gérard Bertrand Côtes des Roses Rosé 2019 ($14), with aromas of red fruits, rose and citrus and a fresh, balanced, persistent palate.

• Raimat Rosada D.O. Costers del Segre 2018 ($13), has subtle strawberry, cherry, floral and grapefruit notes with a pleasant, fresh and long-lasting finish.

• La Fête du Rosé 2018 ($25), “made for serious wine drinkers, it has a slight nuttiness and fruity quality like dried apricot,” says Amy Racine, beverage director for JF Restaurants. “It’s great with...a squeeze of lemon to bring out those earthier notes.” 

Grilled Chicken Sandwich

A balanced chardonnay can be your go-to for chicken breasts pounded thinly, grilled and stuffed into a bun—especially if any oak is balanced with acidity, it will make you want to go back for another juicy bite. If you prefer something a little leaner on the palate try a non-oaked sauvignon blanc, whose herbaceousness and acidity matches any lemon juice and herb-based marinade (even if it comes from a bottle).

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• Kingston Estate Wines Chardonnay 2019 ($14), a cool climate wine from Australia’s Limestone Coast, with a peach nose, stone fruits on the palate, a touch of sweet oak and balanced acidity. This wine one a Double Gold medal at the 2020 Berlin International Wine Competition. 

• Trinchero Napa Valley Mary’s Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($35), with aromas of stone fruit, melon and minerality, tropical notes on the palate and bright citrus on the finish.

• Sidewood Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($20), with a bold profile of citrus, herbaceousness, passionfruit, lime and minerality and excellent acidity. This wine won a Double Gold medal at the 2019 New York International Wine Competition. 

Portobello Mushroom Burger

An oversized mushroom cap seasoned and charred is juicy and delicious; it also boasts subtle earthy notes that scream for pinot noir, which shares some of those “wet mushroom” and “forest floor” notes. Jennifer McDonald, founder of Jenny Dawn Cellars, believes that a stuffed ‘shroom goes perfectly with a big bold cab from California’s Paso Robles. “The weather and terroir in the region lend to flavors of black cherry, pomegranate and blackberry and aromas of dark chocolate, olive and herbs,” she says. “It’s earthy and complex which pairs well with umami flavors.”

• Stoneleigh Latitude Marlborough Pinot Noir 2017 ($17), hints of black cherries and boysenberry lead into plum, dark chocolate and berries, with supple tannins and a touch of gaminess. This wine won a Gold medal at the 2019 New York International Wine Competition. 

• Brancott Estate Letter Series T Pinot Noir 2017 ($28), aromas of plums, blackberries, liquorice and smoky oak, a rich and velvety palate with a hint of spice and a savory finish. This wine won a Silver medal at the 2019 New York International Wine Competition. 

• Jenny Dawn Cellars Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($50), aromas of plum, black pepper, currant and blackberry are joined by dark chocolate, tobacco leaf and herbs. It’s bold and assertive with purity of fruit and layered flavor and texture.